What weighs 15 ounces; is the size of a deck of cards and could possibly save an RVer's marriage? Let me give you a scenario. You’re driving your 35-foot RV on a congested four lane highway during rush hour, somewhere you've never been before and your better half is your navigator. You miss your exit and now you need to go 25 miles out of your way to get back on the correct route, arguing about whose fault it was the whole time. Sound familiar?
Now, let’s see what we can do to fix this problem. You’re driving your RV on a congested four lane highway, during rush hour, somewhere you have never been before and your new Global Positioning System (GPS) is your navigator. The unique, turn-by-turn, voice prompt feature instructs you to turn right in eight tenths of a mile. You don’t miss your exit; you don’t need to go 25 miles out of your way and your marriage remains intact.
In the past, whenever my wife Dawn and I would take a trip in the RV, I would print the driving directions from a trip planning website. Then, as we traveled, she would inform me of when and where we would make any changes in our route. Needless to say we missed turns, took wrong exits and on more than one occasion there were those last second, white knuckle lane changes: if you’ve been RVing for a while you know what I’m talking about.
I FINALLY DECIDED to take advantage of modern day technology and purchase a GPS system. All I can say is I should kick myself for waiting so long to do it. The more I learned about these GPS systems the more fascinated I was with their capabilities. Most come pre-programmed with detailed maps, automatic trip routing, voice-prompted turn-by-turn directions along your route, and easy-to-follow touch screen displays, which is exactly what you want when you’re traveling in an RV. If you get a text-to-speech feature the GPS actually calls out the turns you need to make, so you can keep your eyes where they need to be, on the road. If you miss a turn the GPS system automatically recalculates the quickest way to get back on the correct route.
Other features we liked about the GPS are the Points of Interest (POI) like, restaurants, shopping centers and tourist attractions. In addition to all of these features the GPS model we purchased includes a built in MP3 player and a JPEG picture viewer too.
I don’t know about you, but driving an RV in places you've never been before can be nerve-racking at times, especially if you're navigating the old school way, using a map. I am sometimes a little slow to change to the latest technology, but getting a GPS system to help navigate the RV is the best thing I’ve done since switching from dial-up to high speed internet service. This truly is a great way to make traveling in your RV less stressful. And, who knows, it might just result in a happier marriage, too!
A final note: I still print the route from a trip planning website and keep my maps next to the drivers seat, just in case!
Learn more about using your RV and its operation with Mark Polk's best-selling DVDs, books and eBooks.
Thursday, November 27, 2008
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
Must RV's electrical converter be on at all times?
Dear Mark,
I live year round in a large 5th wheel trailer and I am plugged in at all times. I hear the battery charger kicking in from time to time and the humming of the converter. Do I need to have the converter on at all times? Is it on only to charge the batteries? The manuals are the pits and I am really trying to know all about converters. The more questions I ask from different sources the more answers I get.
Mark:
The converter in your RV basically does two jobs.
1) When you are plugged into electricity it converts a portion of the 120 volts coming into the RV down to 12 volts so all of the 12 volt devices like overhead lights and fan motors will operate without draining the RV battery.
2) It has a battery charger built in the converter to keep the RV battery charged (topped off).
The noise you are hearing is most likely the fan on the converter. The converter gets warm when it is on so the manufacturer adds a fan to help keep it cool. Some are very noisy. You DO NEED the converter on when you are plugged in. If the converter wasn't on, or wasn't operating properly you would run the RV battery down because you are using the 12-volt appliances and devices.
Some older RV converters charge the batteries at a constant rate and will continue to charge the batteries when they are fully charged. This can result in the battery or batteries losing water, so battery maintenance and inspections are important when you have the RV plugged in for long periods of time. Newer converters have three stage chargers that know when the battery is fully charged and at that point only provide a float charge (less charge) to prevent overcharging conditions.
Learn more about using your RV and its operation with Mark Polk's best-selling DVDs, books and eBooks.
I live year round in a large 5th wheel trailer and I am plugged in at all times. I hear the battery charger kicking in from time to time and the humming of the converter. Do I need to have the converter on at all times? Is it on only to charge the batteries? The manuals are the pits and I am really trying to know all about converters. The more questions I ask from different sources the more answers I get.
Mark:
The converter in your RV basically does two jobs.
1) When you are plugged into electricity it converts a portion of the 120 volts coming into the RV down to 12 volts so all of the 12 volt devices like overhead lights and fan motors will operate without draining the RV battery.
2) It has a battery charger built in the converter to keep the RV battery charged (topped off).
The noise you are hearing is most likely the fan on the converter. The converter gets warm when it is on so the manufacturer adds a fan to help keep it cool. Some are very noisy. You DO NEED the converter on when you are plugged in. If the converter wasn't on, or wasn't operating properly you would run the RV battery down because you are using the 12-volt appliances and devices.
Some older RV converters charge the batteries at a constant rate and will continue to charge the batteries when they are fully charged. This can result in the battery or batteries losing water, so battery maintenance and inspections are important when you have the RV plugged in for long periods of time. Newer converters have three stage chargers that know when the battery is fully charged and at that point only provide a float charge (less charge) to prevent overcharging conditions.
Learn more about using your RV and its operation with Mark Polk's best-selling DVDs, books and eBooks.
Thursday, November 6, 2008
How to troubleshoot problems with your RV's 12-volt system
If you've been RVing for any amount of time you already know that a most of the devices and accessories in your motorhome, trailer or other RV operates on 12-volt DC power. Twelve-volt DC (or direct current) is supplied by the RV batteries. DC electricity flows in one direction, from negative to positive. Twelve-VDC electricity is stored in the RV batteries and supplies power for components, devices and appliances that operate on 12-volts.
These devices include overhead lights, the water pump, vent fans, furnace fan, range hood fan, LP gas leak detectors, stereos, 12-volt TVs and the refrigerator when it's operating in the LP gas mode. When camping you rely on these 12-volt items to operate properly, especially if you're dry camping without hook-ups. So what do you do when one of these 12-volt items quit working?
For the sake of an example let's say that we are dry camping and our 12-volt water pump quits working.
I am convinced that just about anybody is capable of troubleshooting a 12-VDC problem, and in many cases repairing the problem without it ruining a camping trip. For starters you'll need a couple of simple tools to assist you in troubleshooting your RV’s 12-volt electrical system.
1). An inexpensive 12-volt test light.
2). A multi-meter that can test for DC power.
Both of these are available at local auto parts stores. You should also keep some electrical tape, various size wire nuts, 12-volt light bulbs and 12-volt fuses on hand. Check the amperage of the fuses used in the power distribution box and keep an assortment. If you're aware of any inline fuses used on any of the 12-volt devices keep these on hand too.
Now, try to determine the last time the water pump actually worked. Did you leave the RV for a period of time with the pump on? Is there water in the fresh water holding tank? Were you working on or around something else that could have affected the operation of the water pump? Try to think of all possible scenarios. Something might jar your memory resulting in a quick fix to the problem.
If not, the first step is to verify that the coach battery or batteries are charged enough to supply power to these 12-volt items. There are a couple of ways to perform a quick test on the coach batteries. You can use the monitor panel to check their condition. For an accurate reading, make sure the RV is not plugged into electricity and turn on a couple of overhead lights to place a small load on the battery. Check the reading at the monitor panel. (If you check the reading at the monitor panel when the RV is plugged in to electricity it will give you fully charged reading) A more accurate method is to test the battery with a multi-meter. Set the meter to read 12-VDC and place the negative test probe on the negative battery terminal and the positive test probe on the positive battery terminal. A fully charged battery will read in the range of 12.6 to 12.7 volts. If it reads less than 12-volts it is below a 50 percent state of charge and will need to be charged.
IF THE BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED, the next step is to make sure that any battery disconnect switch for the coach battery is turned on. If the battery disconnect switch is on, verify that other 12-volt devices in the RV are operating properly. If there is 12-volt power to the interior of the RV you need to check the fuse for the water pump in the power distribution center. Determine which fuse is for the water pump (fuses are normally labeled) and find a suitable ground for the 12-volt test light. Test both sides of the fuse for 12-volt power. If the test light only lights on one side of the fuse replace it with the proper size fuse and try the water pump again. If there was power at both sides of the fuse check for 12-volts at the water pump switch. If there is voltage, and the switch is operating properly check the water pump wiring for an inline fuse.
Find a good ground for the 12-volt test light and probe the wire on both sides of the fuse. If there is only power on one side of the fuse replace it with the proper size fuse and test the pump again. If there is power on both sides of the fuse check the water pump wiring connections at the wire nuts. It's possible for connections to come loose due to excessive vibration. Correct any loose connections and try the pump again. If the pump still doesn't work feel the motor to see if it is hot to the touch. If the motor is hot, a thermal breaker may have been triggered. Allow the pump time to cool off and see if it re-sets itself.
If you complete all of these tests and there is 12-volt DC power coming to the water pump motor, and it still doesn't come on, chances are the water pump is bad and it will need to be replaced.
Troubleshooting a 12-volt electrical problem in your RV is not that difficult. Follow the logical path of the device you are troubleshooting and see if you can determine where the problem is. It might be possible for you to save your well deserved vacation, some money and a trip to the RV dealership too.
Note: If you don't feel comfortable performing your own maintenance or troubleshooting the 12-volt electrical system, take your RV to a reputable repair center to have it checked out and repaired.
Learn more about using your RV and its operation with Mark Polk's best-selling DVDs, books and eBooks.
These devices include overhead lights, the water pump, vent fans, furnace fan, range hood fan, LP gas leak detectors, stereos, 12-volt TVs and the refrigerator when it's operating in the LP gas mode. When camping you rely on these 12-volt items to operate properly, especially if you're dry camping without hook-ups. So what do you do when one of these 12-volt items quit working?
For the sake of an example let's say that we are dry camping and our 12-volt water pump quits working.
I am convinced that just about anybody is capable of troubleshooting a 12-VDC problem, and in many cases repairing the problem without it ruining a camping trip. For starters you'll need a couple of simple tools to assist you in troubleshooting your RV’s 12-volt electrical system.
1). An inexpensive 12-volt test light.
2). A multi-meter that can test for DC power.
Both of these are available at local auto parts stores. You should also keep some electrical tape, various size wire nuts, 12-volt light bulbs and 12-volt fuses on hand. Check the amperage of the fuses used in the power distribution box and keep an assortment. If you're aware of any inline fuses used on any of the 12-volt devices keep these on hand too.
Now, try to determine the last time the water pump actually worked. Did you leave the RV for a period of time with the pump on? Is there water in the fresh water holding tank? Were you working on or around something else that could have affected the operation of the water pump? Try to think of all possible scenarios. Something might jar your memory resulting in a quick fix to the problem.
If not, the first step is to verify that the coach battery or batteries are charged enough to supply power to these 12-volt items. There are a couple of ways to perform a quick test on the coach batteries. You can use the monitor panel to check their condition. For an accurate reading, make sure the RV is not plugged into electricity and turn on a couple of overhead lights to place a small load on the battery. Check the reading at the monitor panel. (If you check the reading at the monitor panel when the RV is plugged in to electricity it will give you fully charged reading) A more accurate method is to test the battery with a multi-meter. Set the meter to read 12-VDC and place the negative test probe on the negative battery terminal and the positive test probe on the positive battery terminal. A fully charged battery will read in the range of 12.6 to 12.7 volts. If it reads less than 12-volts it is below a 50 percent state of charge and will need to be charged.
IF THE BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED, the next step is to make sure that any battery disconnect switch for the coach battery is turned on. If the battery disconnect switch is on, verify that other 12-volt devices in the RV are operating properly. If there is 12-volt power to the interior of the RV you need to check the fuse for the water pump in the power distribution center. Determine which fuse is for the water pump (fuses are normally labeled) and find a suitable ground for the 12-volt test light. Test both sides of the fuse for 12-volt power. If the test light only lights on one side of the fuse replace it with the proper size fuse and try the water pump again. If there was power at both sides of the fuse check for 12-volts at the water pump switch. If there is voltage, and the switch is operating properly check the water pump wiring for an inline fuse.
Find a good ground for the 12-volt test light and probe the wire on both sides of the fuse. If there is only power on one side of the fuse replace it with the proper size fuse and test the pump again. If there is power on both sides of the fuse check the water pump wiring connections at the wire nuts. It's possible for connections to come loose due to excessive vibration. Correct any loose connections and try the pump again. If the pump still doesn't work feel the motor to see if it is hot to the touch. If the motor is hot, a thermal breaker may have been triggered. Allow the pump time to cool off and see if it re-sets itself.
If you complete all of these tests and there is 12-volt DC power coming to the water pump motor, and it still doesn't come on, chances are the water pump is bad and it will need to be replaced.
Troubleshooting a 12-volt electrical problem in your RV is not that difficult. Follow the logical path of the device you are troubleshooting and see if you can determine where the problem is. It might be possible for you to save your well deserved vacation, some money and a trip to the RV dealership too.
Note: If you don't feel comfortable performing your own maintenance or troubleshooting the 12-volt electrical system, take your RV to a reputable repair center to have it checked out and repaired.
Learn more about using your RV and its operation with Mark Polk's best-selling DVDs, books and eBooks.
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