I've always been an advocate for towing safety, whether it's towing a trailer or a vehicle behind a motorhome. One of the most controversial topics I've encountered is whether a vehicle towed behind a motorhome needs a supplemental braking system. I believe that if the state where you live has laws requiring a trailer over a certain weight to have brakes then the laws would also apply to a vehicle towed behind a motorhome. Another argument is that many state towing laws are antiquated and need to be updated. When some of these laws were written people weren't towing vehicles behind motorhomes.
The brakes on a motorhome are designed to stop the weight of that particular vehicle, not additional weight being towed. This additional weight adds a substantial increase to the distance required to stop safely. And, even if the motorhome is capable of stopping the vehicle, the added stress from the force on the tow bar and hitch when the vehicle doesn't have brakes can result in damage to the tow bar or separation from the hitch. Some motorhome chassis warranties are voided if you tow over a certain amount without a supplemental braking system.
I'll go even one step further. I am not a big fan of the federal government regulating things that individual states should control, but when it comes to trailer towing laws I do believe the laws should be the same for every state. Trailers need safety chains, lights, proper hitchwork and if it weighs over a certain amount it needs brakes, period! It makes no sense that a trailer would need brakes in one state but not in another state. Why do we need 50 different sets of guidelines and laws regulating the operation of a trailer?
AFTER ANALYZING A FIVE YEAR HISTORY of data collected through the National Highway Traffic Safety Administrations General Estimates System I discovered that on average there were 68,358 accidents involving passenger vehicles towing trailers per year. The average fatalities from accidents involving trailers are 446 per year. The average numbers of injuries from these accidents are 24,506 per year and the average instances of property damage resulting from these accidents are 43,405 per year. To me, this is unacceptable.
I would guess that most of these trailer related accidents involve small utility trailers, trailers used in construction and other businesses, horse trailers and of course boat and RV trailers, too. The bottom line is there is no excuse for these kinds of statistics. I see unsafe trailers on the road all the time, but the way I see it is in most cases it is a driver's lack of education or understanding of what is involved to safely and properly tow a trailer, regardless its type or size.
I think a good start to educating the consumer would be to standardize the laws and regulations regarding the operation of all trailers and vehicles being towed. It would simplify the process and answer questions that people have like:
1) What is required to be on the trailer i.e., safety chains, lights, break-away switch (with a charged battery)?
2) How much can a trailer/vehicle weigh before it needs brakes?
3) What type of hitchwork do I need?
Half of the battle to safe towing is using the proper equipment. The other half is enforcement. Law enforcement officers need to be trained on what the laws and requirements are for safe trailer towing and then enforce the laws.
There is no reason for over 68,000 accidents and more than 440 deaths a year involving vehicles towing trailers.
That's how I see it, how about you?
Learn how to tow a vehicle behind a motor home in an easy to understand way. RV expert Mark Polk shows you everything you need to know.
Friday, March 27, 2009
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Keeping cool in your RV
Summer will be here soon and for RVers that not only means prime travel season is upon us, but so is the heat. If you ever walked inside an RV sitting in the direct sunlight, on a hot summer day, you know what I mean. Fortunately there are some simple things we can do to make our summer RV camping trips more pleasurable.•Strategically parking your RV to take advantage of any shade that is available, especially on the side where the refrigerator vent is located. Don’t be afraid to ask for a shady site when you check in at the campground. This will not only help cool the RV down, but your refrigerator and roof A/C will work much more efficiently.
•You can improve your air conditioners efficiency by keeping the A/C filters clean. In most cases you can wash the filters in warm soapy water, rinse thoroughly and allow them to dry before reinstalling. Another option is to clean the filters with a small hand held vacuum cleaner. I recommend you keep a new set of filters on hand in the event the old filters have seen better days.
•Use your patio awning and any window awnings to assist in cooling the RV down. In addition to the awnings use your window blinds or drapes to help keep the sun out and the cooler air in.
•Campground voltage can fluctuate, especially during the summer months when campers are placing a higher demand on campground electricity. You should monitor the voltage coming in to your RV with a digital voltmeter. If voltage drops below 105-volts or goes above 130-volts turn your appliances and electronic equipment off until proper voltage is restored.
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Your RV tires: the weakest link
During my time in the Army I was in charge of some very large maintenance operations. We would go on countless recovery missions to upright vehicles that rolled over, or to tow a sixty-ton M1 tank back to the maintenance facility. We would inspect and re-inspect the riggings, looking for the weakest link, before attempting to recover these vehicles. Since retiring from the military my passion has been with RV’s and once again I realized the importance of the weakest link lesson.
Every weight rating on an RV is based on the weakest link in the system. The tires on your RV are by far the most important and most neglected link in the system. I can’t begin to tell you how many times I’ve heard people say that the tires on their RV were defective, or my tires only had 12,000 miles on them when I had a blowout. In the majority of cases the truth of the matter is that tire maintenance has been neglected. The only thing between your RV and the road surface is your tires and the air that is in them. This is the weakest link.
What are some of the leading causes of premature tire failure?
• Overloading the tires
• Under inflated tires
• Ozone and UV rays
• Age of the tires
• Rotating tires
Tire failure can be extremely dangerous and can cause extensive damage to your RV. There are no guarantees, but by practicing good tire maintenance you can feel much safer and secure that the weakest link on your RV will do its job while you’re out exploring this wonderful country we live in.

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Every weight rating on an RV is based on the weakest link in the system. The tires on your RV are by far the most important and most neglected link in the system. I can’t begin to tell you how many times I’ve heard people say that the tires on their RV were defective, or my tires only had 12,000 miles on them when I had a blowout. In the majority of cases the truth of the matter is that tire maintenance has been neglected. The only thing between your RV and the road surface is your tires and the air that is in them. This is the weakest link.
What are some of the leading causes of premature tire failure?
• Overloading the tires
• Under inflated tires
• Ozone and UV rays
• Age of the tires
• Rotating tires
Tire failure can be extremely dangerous and can cause extensive damage to your RV. There are no guarantees, but by practicing good tire maintenance you can feel much safer and secure that the weakest link on your RV will do its job while you’re out exploring this wonderful country we live in.

Find out about DVDs and eBooks by RV expert Mark Polk.

Get headline RV news from Twitter
Keep up with the latest in RV news and information at our new RV Travel headline service at Twitter.com. Plus, you'll be the first to get an alert about each new issue of the weekly RVtravel.com newsletter. Go there now.
Friday, March 6, 2009
Neglecting RV batteries is a bad thing
RV coach batteries are one of the most important and neglected components in the RV. The converter in an RV also has a battery charger. Whenever you are plugged in to electricity or the generator is running, the coach batteries are being charged. They are also being charged by the automotive alternator when you are driving the RV or in the case of a towable RV if you had a charge line wired into the light plug. This constant charging can deplete the electrolyte levels in the batteries cells. If a battery is not maintained properly it will fail much sooner than it should. Depending on how often a battery is being charged will determine how often the electrolyte level needs to be checked.
Checking the electrolyte level on a regular basis can save your flooded lead acid batteries. Check the water level monthly and if you leave your RV plugged in with the batteries being charged by the converter battery charger check it bi-monthly. If your converter doesn’t have a three-stage charger the battery is getting a constant charge of 13.5 volts. When the batteries are topped off this voltage is too high for a float charge and it can boil off the electrolyte over time. If you are not familiar with batteries and battery maintenance have them checked by an authorized service center.
BATTERIES CAN BE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. They emit gases that are explosive and they contain a very corrosive acid. If you do perform your own maintenance certain precautions must be taken. Do not use an open flame or smoke around batteries. Avoid any electrical arcing or sparks around the battery(s). Wear protective clothing and safety glasses and avoid getting any battery acid on your skin or clothes. If you do come in contact with battery acid flush the exposed area immediately with a lot of cold water.
When you add water only use mineral free water. Distilled water is best, and only fill the cell to 1/8 inch below the fill well. Overfilling cells will cause battery acid to overflow. When this happens the battery will lose some of its capacity and corrosion will build up on and around the battery. Water should only be added after fully charging the battery unless the water level is already below the plates.
Follow these steps for watering the battery. Remove the vent caps and look inside the fill wells. Check the electrolyte levels. The minimum level required for charging the battery is at the top of the plates. If it's below the plates add enough distilled water to cover the plates before you charge the battery. Fully charge the battery before adding more water. When the battery is charged remove the vent caps and check the electrolyte levels. Add distilled water until electrolyte level is 1/8 inch below the fill well. Replace and tighten all vent caps.
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Checking the electrolyte level on a regular basis can save your flooded lead acid batteries. Check the water level monthly and if you leave your RV plugged in with the batteries being charged by the converter battery charger check it bi-monthly. If your converter doesn’t have a three-stage charger the battery is getting a constant charge of 13.5 volts. When the batteries are topped off this voltage is too high for a float charge and it can boil off the electrolyte over time. If you are not familiar with batteries and battery maintenance have them checked by an authorized service center.
BATTERIES CAN BE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. They emit gases that are explosive and they contain a very corrosive acid. If you do perform your own maintenance certain precautions must be taken. Do not use an open flame or smoke around batteries. Avoid any electrical arcing or sparks around the battery(s). Wear protective clothing and safety glasses and avoid getting any battery acid on your skin or clothes. If you do come in contact with battery acid flush the exposed area immediately with a lot of cold water.
When you add water only use mineral free water. Distilled water is best, and only fill the cell to 1/8 inch below the fill well. Overfilling cells will cause battery acid to overflow. When this happens the battery will lose some of its capacity and corrosion will build up on and around the battery. Water should only be added after fully charging the battery unless the water level is already below the plates.
Follow these steps for watering the battery. Remove the vent caps and look inside the fill wells. Check the electrolyte levels. The minimum level required for charging the battery is at the top of the plates. If it's below the plates add enough distilled water to cover the plates before you charge the battery. Fully charge the battery before adding more water. When the battery is charged remove the vent caps and check the electrolyte levels. Add distilled water until electrolyte level is 1/8 inch below the fill well. Replace and tighten all vent caps.
GET THE LATEST RV HEADLINE NEWS AT TWITTER
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