Product does good job filtering RV drinking water

I have written many times about water filtration, water quality and sanitizing your RV water system. There are plenty of reasons RVers should be concerned about the water they drink. When you travel in your RV and stop at different destinations on a regular basis you don’t know anything about the quality of the water.  I have always advocated filtering the water in our RV and I am always on the lookout for the best possible method for filtering water.

In October we attended the RVDA convention/Expo in Las Vegas. Every year vendors bring their wares to the convention and introduce these new products to the RV industry. There are always one or two innovative products that catch my eye. This year it was the Metal Trap Ultra Dual filtration system by Hydropure Technologies.

I had the opportunity to talk to Jerry Rademan, president and scientist/chemist behind the product. Jerry has a true passion for clean drinking water and water purification. He explained to me that the Metal Trap Ultra Dual System is the only filter system commercially available that will eliminate or significantly reduce all contaminants in one single system. He said, “The people at Hydro Pure Technologies are dedicated to our families and to our customers. We think there is no other food source that impacts the health aspect of our lives as clean drinking water! It is our goal to provide the best quality water that is available commercially."

Then Jerry challenged me. He said he would send me a Metal Trap Ultra filter system and let me be the judge. What he didn’t know was that my family had recently moved into a new house where the drinking water has a foul odor and taste. And if anybody would know if the filter system works it would be my wife and my 13 year-old son, who constantly talk about the quality of the water in our home.

Shortly after returning from the convention I received two Metal Trap Ultra Dual water filter systems. I installed the larger 14,000 gallon rated system in the house and the 6,000 gallon rated system for the RV. The installation was simple, especially for the RV. The installation in our house required a quick trip to Lowes for some additional plumbing fittings to tie it into the existing water system.

The thing I really like about the Metal Trap Ultra Dual System is that it works for both well water and city water, so it only makes sense that it would be great for RV applications. It filters out metals like iron, manganese, and copper and it also removes hydrogen sulfide which causes the rotten egg smell found in most well-water sources. It also filters out chlorine, chlorinated organic compounds that can be carcinogenic and it removes residual pharmaceuticals, pesticides and herbicides that can find their way into our city drinking water. 

The metal trap Ultra dual system works on chemical oxidation, absorption and ion exchange principals that both remove and trap these metals and other unwanted contaminants. Most other filters work on physically straining the water, which doesn’t remove the contaminants that are dissolved in the water. When the water enters the Metal Trap filter the unwanted contaminants get oxidized and are trapped in the filter body. The activated carbon filters out the foul tasting and potentially harmful chemicals and contaminants. When the water enters the second filter it goes through a one micron sediment filter which filters out viruses, bacteria, fine silt, oxidized metals and un-dissolved calcium particles greater than one micron in size.

The real test came after the system was installed, and it passed with flying colors. No more odors and the water is great tasting too. My wife said that it lived up to Jerry’s claim that water filtered through a Metal Trap Ultra filter system is better than any bottled water and better tasting too.

Learn about Mark Polks extensive of helpful DVDs, books and eBooks at RVbookstore.com

How to estimate propane needed for an RV trip

Have you ever planned an RV trip to a remote area and wondered how long the LP gas in your LP cylinders or LP tank would last? If so, there is a rough way to do it.

First, you'll need to know how much propane is in your RV cylinders or tank when full. Remember an RV propane cylinder or tank is full at 80 percent of its capacity to allow for expansion. Wait until your cylinder or tank is nearly empty and the next time you have it filled ask the attendant how much it holds.

The next step is to multiply your propane container capacity using one of these formulas, (gallons or pounds), to determine the container BTU capacity.

* BTUs per gallon equal 91,502.
* BTUs per pound equal 21,548.

Now, divide your container BTU capacity by the total BTU demand of the LP gas appliances you plan to use. BTU appliance demand can normally be found on the appliance itself, or in the appliance owner’s manual.

This will give you an idea of how long you can expect your LP gas to last.

For example: If your RV propane container holds 14 gallons of LP gas when it’s full, you multiply 14 X 91,502. The result is 1,281,028. Now divide this figure by the total BTU demand of any LP gas appliances you will be using. Let’s say, for the sake of an example, the total BTU demand will be 43,800 BTUs. In this case you would have approximately 29 hours of use before running out of LP gas.

However, keep in mind that the amount of LP gas in the container and varying temperatures will affect these calculations too. This is especially true in cold weather. At temperatures below zero degrees the per hour container BTU capacity will be reduced by 50% or more.

Calculating propane usage can give you a general idea of how long you can use your LP gas fired appliances before needing to find a propane filling station.

Learn about Mark Polks extensive of helpful DVDs, books and eBooks at RVbookstore.com

How to prevent water damage to your RV

A RVer wrote me the other day with a question: “My neighbor just paid an expensive repair bill for water damage on his RV and I would like to know what I can do to prevent this same thing from happening to me?”

If there is a way for water to get in your RV it will find it. Water leaks on an RV can cause extensive damage and can be costly to repair. To protect your investment and your wallet you need to take the time to REALLY inspect for water leaks. The outside of your RV may look fine but the internal damage caused by water over a period of time can result in the entire roof, floor or wall rotting away without you even knowing it until it’s too late. You should inspect your RV for water leaks twice a year at a minimum, and especially prior to storage if it will be stored outside.

Here are a few things to look for during your routine inspections.

*To stop a leak before it starts thoroughly inspect all roof and body seams. Reseal any seams or sealants that show signs of cracking or separation. Consult your RV dealer for sealants compatible with different types of materials.

*Look for any discoloration, and feel for any soft spots on the ceiling around roof vents, air conditioners, TV antennas, plumbing vents, and any other openings that were cut in the roof. Soft spots are an indication that water damage has already started. Find the source of the leak and have it repaired immediately.

*Look for any discoloration or wrinkles in the wallpaper, and feel for any soft spots on the walls around all windows, doors, slide outs, or any other openings that were cut in the side walls.

*Identify the location of items like the water heater, furnace, outside shower, potable water fill and city water inlet on the outside of the RV and then access those areas from the inside of the RV. Look for any indications of water damage around these openings.

*Open all overhead cabinets and look in the top corner where the walls meet the ceiling for any discoloration and feel for any soft spots. This would indicate a leak at the seam where the sidewall and the roof attach.

*Check in all outside storage compartments for any indications of water leaks or water damage.

*Check for any soft spots on the roof itself especially around the roof seams at the front and rear of the RV. Thoroughly inspect all sealants on the roof around every opening.

Caution: Be extremely careful when working on the roof of your RV, a fall can cause serious injuries, or be fatal. Not all roofs are designed to be walked on. It may be necessary to use 2X4 foot sections of 1/2″ plywood to distribute your weight over the roof rafters.

*Some Class C motor homes are notorious for leaks in the cab over bed area. Look for any signs of discoloration and feel for soft spots. Remove the mattress and feel for water.

*If your RV has fiberglass sidewalls look and feel the outside walls for any signs of delamination. Delamination is caused by water getting between the exterior fiberglass and the sidewall. When this happens the exterior fiberglass separates from the sidewall of the RV. You can stand at the front or rear of the RV and look down the side for any noticeable ripples or what looks like a bubble. You can also press on the sidewalls. If you feel the exterior fiberglass move it is delaminating. Many times delamination starts where an opening was cut in the sidewall of the RV. Have any noticeable damage repaired immediately!

The key to preventing water damage on your RV is to perform these inspections on a routine basis and to discover and repair any leaks while in the early stages. If you don’t feel comfortable performing these inspections have an authorized service center do it for you.

Learn about Mark Polks extensive of helpful DVDs, books and eBooks at RVbookstore.com

Mark Polk's seven tips for motorhome tire safety

It seems as though I talk about tire safety all of the time. The reason I do is because tires are an important safety topic concerning motorhomes, and are often overlooked.

Just recently I read a newspaper article that summed up just how overlooked tires are, in general. The article stated, “The Rubber Manufacturers Association found that 29 million drivers believe that tires require no regular maintenance.”

Let’s take a look at my top seven tire tips for safer motorhome trips.

1. Two of the biggest problems with motorhomes today are overloading the RV and under inflated tires. With multiple slideout rooms, large holding tank capacities and the ample amount of storage space available on today’s motorhomes it’s easy to see why so many are overloaded. We have a natural tendency to fill every nook and cranny of available storage space on our motorhome.

2. Another problem is out-of-balance loads. You can be within an axle or tire’s load capacity on one end of an axle, and be over capacity on the other axle end. This is a common problem with motorhomes, and many times the cause is poor weight distribution and/or improper loading of the motorhome. When this happens the tire or tires on the end of the axle that is overloaded are subject to tire failure.

The bottom line is overloaded motorhomes and under inflated tires can be extremely dangerous. The only way to make sure your RV is not overloaded is to have it weighed.

3. Weight ratings for motorhomes are established by the manufacturer and are based on the weakest link in the chain. When you exceed a weight rating, you are overloading one or more components on the motorhome and risk wearing out the component prematurely or complete failure of the component. In many cases the tires on your motor coach are the weakest link.

Just like the axles on your motorhome, your tires have load ratings, too. The maximum ratings are molded into the side of the tires. Keep in mind these are maximum ratings. The sidewall of the tire shows the maximum load and the inflation pressure for that load. Never set the inflation pressures below the recommendations you find on the vehicle manufacturer’s placard, and do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure ratings found on the tire’s sidewall.

4. The tires on your motor coach are the most vulnerable component affected by overloading the motorhome. There are numerous reasons for this. First and foremost is when the tires are not inflated properly for the load. Failure to maintain correct tire pressure can result in fast tread wear, uneven wear, poor handling and excessive heat buildup, which can lead to tire failure.

The only way to correctly measure the inflation pressure in your tires is with a quality inflation pressure gauge. Using your boot, a club or a hammer is not accurate, and don’t ever depend on your eyes to check tire inflation. There can be as much as 20 PSI difference between tires that look the same to your eye. Invest in an accurate inflation pressure gauge. Get one with a double, angled foot. This makes it much easier to check the outer tire of a dual set.

5. Check all of your tires on a regular basis and adjust the pressure according to the manufacturer’s recommendation. Never check inflation pressure when the tires are hot, because you will get a higher pressure reading. And if you let out some air, the tires will be under inflated when they are cold.

If you have dual wheels, you’ll want to add extension hoses to the valve stems to make the job of checking tire inflation easier. It can be nearly impossible to check the inner dual without extension hoses. The best extension hoses will have stainless-steel reinforcement and external braiding for long trouble-free life.

6. Ozone in the air and UV rays from the sun shorten the life of your tires. It’s not uncommon to see motorhome tires with low mileage and plenty of tread that are ruined by the damaging effects of ozone and UV rays. Ozone in the air causes tires to dry rot and deteriorate. UV rays from the sun make it happen quicker. This is especially true of the tire’s sidewall. Inspect your tires for damage, such as cracks in the sidewalls. If you notice anything, have the tires inspected by a professional.

Also, keep the tires covered with covers that will block out the sunlight when you’re not using your motorhome. You should also place something like a piece of wood between the ground and the tires. Be sure that whatever you use is larger than the footprint of the tire. No portion of the tire should hang over the edge of the tire block. This can cause internal damage to the tire.

7. Occasionally washing your tires with soap and water is okay, but anything beyond that can actually shorten the life of your tires. Sidewall rubber contains antioxidants and anti-ozones that are designed to work their way to the surface of the rubber to protect it. Washing tires excessively removes these protective compounds and can age tires prematurely. The same is true of most tire dressing designed to make your tires shine.

Tire failure can be extremely dangerous and can cause extensive damage to your motorhome. There are no guarantees, but by practicing good tire maintenance you can feel much safer and secure that the weakest link on your motorhome will do its job while you’re out exploring this wonderful country we live in.