The most common RV repairs and why you need a checklist

The two most common repairs to an RV are the steps and the TV antenna. Damage to RV steps and TV antennas occur frequently and can be costly to repair. The main reason is because RVers forget to do a walk around of their unit before leaving on a trip or leaving the campground. The good news is both of these common repairs can be avoided by following a simple pre-trip checklist before heading out in your RV.

Regardless of the type of RV you own you need to get in the habit of making these pre-trip checks every time you use your RV. Taking a few minutes to complete these simple checks can save you time and money for unnecessary repairs to your RV. Here is a good pre-trip checklist.

Outside of your RV
* Check and adjust the air pressure in all tires. Always check the tires when they are cold, before traveling more than one mile.
* Check the lug nuts on the wheels. Discoloration and stains around lug nuts indicate they may be loose.
* Make sure all items in the storage compartments are secure. Lock all outside compartments.
* Check the bike rack and bikes for secure mounting if applicable.
* Make sure the power cord and water hose, and the sewer hose are disconnected and properly stored.
* Make sure all slide outs are in and slide out travel locks are securely in place.
* Make sure the TV antenna and / or satellite are down and stowed in the proper position for traveling.
* Check the awning. Make sure that it is securely stored and all travel locks and knobs are tight and locked.
* Raise all stabilizer jacks or hydraulic leveling jacks.
* Look under the RV for any indications of leaks (motorized) or anything out of the ordinary.
* Stow or retract the steps.
* Fill the fresh water holding tank with enough potable water to get to your destination.
* Check and secure the cap on the sewer outlet.
* Turn all LP gas appliances off and turn the gas supply off at the tank or bottles.
* Double check all hitch work on towable RV's and on vehicles being towed behind motor homes.
* Check all fluid levels for motorized RV's and tow vehicles.
* Remove and store wheel chocks and any type of leveling blocks.
* Check all running lights, turn signals, brake lights and headlights on the RV and tow vehicle.
* Check for an up to date inspection or emission sticker and license plates.
* Check trailer brakes for proper operation.
* Make one last walk around the outside and check for anything you may have overlooked.

Inside of your RV
* Walk through the entire RV and secure all loose items that could move, fall or get damaged while traveling.
* Turn off all appliances gas & electric. Turn off all pilot lights.
* Close all roof vents
* Close all doors, drawers and cabinets
* Check for anything in the refrigerator that could spill. Lock the refrigerator and freezer doors.
* Turn off the 12-volt water pump.
* Close the range top cover.
* Turn off all 12-volt lights and accessories that could drain the auxiliary battery. Don't forget the TV antenna booster.
* Close the windows and secure blinds.
* Secure any large items such as TVs and computers that might move or fall while traveling.
* All weight in the RV should be distributed evenly. Adjust your mirrors and seat and hit the road.

This checklist may not be all-inclusive, but it's a good start. You can add to this list and tailor it to your specific type of RV. The most important thing to remember is to use this checklist every time you use your RV. It's easy to forget something without a reminder. I always do one last walk around of the RV just before pulling out. You'll be amazed at what you may have missed the first time around.

Looking for a more thorough checklist? Mark has one available for instant download. Click here to get it.

Don't mess with carbon monoxide

Carbon monoxide gas is invisible, odorless, and deadly. It's produced when any fuel is burned; this includes gasoline, propane, natural gas, wood and coal. It is extremely serious when combustion by-products are not vented outside. Carbon monoxide is the number one cause of poisoning deaths in the United States each year. Here's what you can do to prevent the danger of carbon monoxide in your RV.

In RVs carbon monoxide gas usually results from:
* Exhaust leaks from either a vehicle engine or a generator.
* Improper use of portable gas powered heaters.
* Someone else's vehicle or generator when camping in close quarters.

If your RV doesn't have a carbon monoxide detector you need to purchase a battery operated one designed for use in RVs. Test it every time you use the RV. Replace its batteries when you change clocks for daylight savings time.

Here are some more important notes about carbon monoxide:
* Inspect the generator exhaust system before using the generator, every time.
* Avoid leaving windows down and roof vents open when in close proximity to vehicle and/or generator exhaust.
* Follow all directions and safety cautions and warnings when operating gas powered heaters.
* If you use a portable generator direct the exhaust away from the camping area.
* Never use the range burners or oven to heat the RV!
* When cooking with the range burners use the range fan & always leave a window cracked open for fresh air and ventilation.

Learn how to recognize the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning:
1) Dizziness
2) Vomiting
3) Nausea
4) Muscular twitching
5) Intense headache
6) Throbbing in the temples
7) Weakness and sleepiness
8) Inability to think coherently

* If you or anyone else experiences any of these symptoms get to fresh air immediately. If the symptoms persist seek medical attention.
* Shut the vehicle or generator down and do not operate it until it has been inspected and repaired by a professional.

This information is an excerpt from our RV Safety Features, Tips and Tricks DVD.

Is Your Tire Pressure Gauge Accurate?

Is your tire pressure gauge giving you accurate information? Many of the really inexpensive gauges ($5) you can purchase can't be calibrated, and if the reading is inaccurate the gauge is worthless. This is why you should spend a little more ($15-$25) and get a quality pressure gauge that can be calibrated. I am a real believer in the old saying "you get what you pay for."

If you have any doubt about the accuracy of your tire pressure gauge there are a couple things you can do to check it.

1) Check the air pressure of a tire with the gauge in question and then check the same tire with another gauge. If there is a significant difference in the readings (4 or more psi) between the two gauges one or both gauges may be inaccurate. If both gauges read within 1 to 2 psi of each other the gauges are more than likely accurate.

2) If you want a more precise method for checking the accuracy take the gauge to a local tire dealer or fleet truck maintenance facility and ask them to check it using a master gauge. A master gauge is a gauge that is certified to be accurate. But I caution you there are lots of tire dealers who don't have their own tire pressure gauges calibrated.

Note: Don't depend on pressure gauges at gas stations to be accurate. These are usually abused and neglected, raising concern over accuracy.

THERE ARE SEVERAL DIFFERENT TYPES of pressure gauges available on the market. One important thing to keep in mind is the pressure the gauge is rated for. Most automobile tires are inflated to around 32 psi, so a 0 to 60 psi gauge is sufficient. On the other hand some motorhome tires are inflated to 100 or more psi. It is important, for accuracy and to prevent damage to the gauge, that you get the right gauge for the job. A general rule of thumb is to find a gauge that can read double what the inflation pressure is set at. This isn't always possible especially with tires inflated to 100 psi, so find a gauge rated for high pressure, like 160 psi.

Possibly the most common type of pressure gauge is the plunge or pencil type. Some of these are calibrated and some of the cheaper ones are not. As a general rule a common plunge type gauge you would purchase will be accurate to + or - 3 psi when it is new. The accuracy of these type gauges are also affected by temperature, humidity and altitude.

Note: Always check the tire pressure when the tires are cold, before traveling. If you check the tires when they are hot you will get a false (higher) reading and if you let air out of the tires they can be seriously under-inflated when they are cold.

Like everything else these days' things are switching from analog to digital. Analog tire pressure gauges were the standard for many years, but advancements in digital technology have improved on that standard. Analog dial gauges are about as accurate as the quality pencil type gauges. In numerous tests comparing different type gauges digital gauges were the most accurate tested.

Regardless of the type of gauge you choose there are high quality and low quality gauges available. Buying a cheap digital gauge would be the same as buying a cheap pencil type gauge. Here are a few things to keep in mind when it comes to tire pressure gauges.

1) Spend a few more dollars and get a quality pressure gauge.

2) If the gauge will be used for checking dual wheels on a motorhome the chuck end of the gauge should have a dual foot design to make the job much easier.

3) Always select a gauge rated higher than the inflation pressure of the tires you are checking. Applying more pressure than the gauge is rated for can damage the gauge and affect the accuracy. If you over-pressure a gauge have it tested for accuracy.

4) Try not to drop or jar the gauge. Store the gauge in some type of protective covering or case and in an area where it won't be hit or damaged.

5) Periodically have the gauge tested for accuracy. At a minimum compare it to another quality gauge to see if both read the same, or close to the same pressure.

6) Most importantly, once you purchase a quality pressure gauge use it on a regular basis to check your RV and automobile tires.

Remember, properly inflated tires are safer, extend the life of the tires, improve fuel efficiency and lessen the chance of unexpected and premature tire failure.

Amazon sells a wide variety of tire pressure gauges. Check out its selection.

How to troubleshoot an RV water pump problem

A good portion of the devices and accessories in your RV operate off of 12-volt DC power. Twelve-volt DC or Direct Current is electricity supplied by the RV batteries. DC electricity flows in one direction, from negative to positive. Twelve-VDC electricity is stored in the RV batteries and supplies power for components, devices and appliances that operate off of 12-volts.

These 12-volt devices include overhead lights, the water pump, vent fans, furnace fan, range hood fan, LP gas leak detectors, stereos, 12-volt TVs and the refrigerator when it’s operating in the LP gas mode. When you go camping you rely on these 12-volt items to operate properly, especially if you’re dry camping without hook-ups. So what do you do when one of these 12-volt items quit working?

For the sake of an example let’s say that we are dry camping and our 12-volt water pump quits working. I am convinced that just about anybody is capable of troubleshooting a 12-VDC problem, and in many cases repairing the problem without it ruining your camping trip. For starters you will need a couple of simple tools to assist you in troubleshooting your RV’s 12-volt electrical system.

1. An inexpensive 12-volt test light.
2. A multi-meter that can test for DC power.

Both are available at auto parts stores. You should also keep some electrical tape, various size wire nuts, 12-volt light bulbs and 12-volt fuses on hand. Check the amperage of the fuses used in the power distribution box and keep an assortment. If you’re aware of any inline fuses used on any of the 12-volt devices keep these on hand too.

Now, try to determine the last time the water pump actually worked. Did you leave the RV for a period of time with the pump on? Is there water in the fresh water holding tank? Were you working on or around something else that could have affected the operation of the water pump? Try to think of all possible scenarios. Something might jar your memory resulting in a quick fix to the problem.

If not, the first step is to verify that the coach battery or batteries are charged enough to supply power to these 12-volt items. There are a couple of ways to perform a quick test on the coach batteries. You can use the monitor panel to check the condition of the coach batteries. To get an accurate reading make sure the RV is not plugged into electricity and turn on a couple of overhead lights to place a small load on the battery. Check the reading at the monitor panel. (If you check the reading at the monitor panel when the RV is plugged in to electricity it will give you fully charged reading) A more accurate method is to test the battery with a multi-meter. Set the meter to read 12-VDC and place the negative test probe on the negative battery terminal and the positive test probe on the positive battery terminal. A fully charged battery will read in the range of 12.6 to 12.7 volts. If it reads less than 12-volts it is below a 50 percent state of charge and will need to be charged.

IF THE BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED, the next step is to make sure that any battery disconnect switch for the coach battery is turned on. If the battery disconnect switch is on, verify that other 12-volt devices in the RV are operating properly. If there is 12-volt power to the interior of the RV you need to check the fuse for the water pump in the power distribution center. Determine which fuse is for the water pump (fuses are normally labeled) and find a suitable ground for the 12-volt test light. Test both sides of the fuse for 12-volt power. If the test light only lights on one side of the fuse replace it with the proper size fuse and try the water pump again. If there was power at both sides of the fuse check for 12-volts at the water pump switch. If there is voltage, and the switch is operating properly check the water pump wiring for an inline fuse.

Find a good ground for the 12-volt test light and probe the wire on both sides of the fuse. If there is only power on one side of the fuse replace it with the proper size fuse and test the pump again. If there is power on both sides of the fuse check the water pump wiring connections at the wire nuts. It’s possible for connections to come loose due to excessive vibration. Correct any loose connections and try the pump again. If the pump still doesn’t work feel the motor to see if it is hot to the touch. If the motor is hot, a thermal breaker may have been triggered. Allow the pump time to cool off and see if it re-sets itself.

If you complete all of these tests and there is 12-volt DC power coming to the water pump motor, and it still doesn’t come on, chances are the water pump is bad and it will need to be replaced.

Troubleshooting a 12-volt electrical problem in your RV is not that difficult. Follow the logical path of the device you are troubleshooting and see if you can determine where the problem is. It might be possible for you to save your well deserved vacation, some money and a trip to the RV dealership too.

Note: If you don’t feel comfortable performing your own maintenance or troubleshooting the 12-volt electrical system, take your RV to a reputable repair center to have it checked out and repaired.